Paris Fashion Week 2017 witnessed a powerful statement from Yves Saint Laurent, a collection that resonated far beyond the runway and continues to be discussed and dissected within fashion circles. Anthony Vaccarello, the creative director at the helm, presented his Saint Laurent Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection, a show that expertly blended the house's iconic heritage with a distinctly modern, edgy aesthetic. This article will delve into the key elements of the show, exploring the runway looks, the beauty choices, the models who brought the collection to life, and the critical reviews that followed, paying particular attention to the resurgence of Saint Laurent logomania and its impact within the broader context of Vogue's coverage of the Saint Laurent 2017 show.
The Runway: A Symphony of Darkness and Decadence
Vaccarello's Fall 2017 collection for Saint Laurent was a masterful study in contrasts. The setting itself contributed significantly to the overall mood: a stark, minimalist space, devoid of unnecessary embellishment, allowed the clothes to take center stage. This starkness amplified the drama inherent in the collection's design. The color palette leaned heavily towards black, punctuated by pops of deep burgundy, emerald green, and occasional flashes of metallics. This dark, almost gothic palette was perfectly in line with the overall aesthetic, evoking a sense of mystery and allure.
The silhouette was instantly recognizable as Saint Laurent, yet undeniably modern. The signature sharp tailoring was present, evident in impeccably cut blazers, tuxedo jackets, and sharply defined trousers. However, Vaccarello injected a dose of rebellious energy into these classic forms. Many pieces featured exaggerated proportions: oversized shoulders, cinched waists, and dramatically flared trousers created a sense of powerful femininity. The collection was not just about clothes; it was about creating a mood, an attitude, a feeling of effortless cool that was both assertive and seductive.
Key pieces included the iconic Le Smoking tuxedo, reimagined for the modern era with a more contemporary fit and bolder details. Long, lean dresses, often featuring plunging necklines or daring slits, showcased a seductive yet sophisticated femininity. Leather played a prominent role, appearing in everything from sleek skirts and jackets to statement belts and boots. The use of fringe added a touch of movement and fluidity, contrasting the sharp lines of the tailoring. This juxtaposition of hard and soft, structured and fluid, was a central theme throughout the collection.
The inclusion of several sheer pieces, often layered over other garments, added another layer of complexity to the collection. These pieces were not overtly revealing but rather hinted at the body beneath, adding a sense of mystery and allure. This deliberate ambiguity was a hallmark of Vaccarello's approach, allowing the viewer to engage with the collection on multiple levels. The overall effect was one of controlled rebellion, a sophisticated darkness that was both alluring and empowering.
Beauty and the Models: Enhancing the Narrative
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